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Kupp Exeter Devon

Kupp, Exeter

As part of our mission to sample each and every eatery in Exeter’s brand new Queen Street, we dropped into KuPP last week to discover what the trendy Scandinavian establishment had to offer.

A Little Background

Kupp describes itself as a ‘quality casual’ affair. It’s founders wanted to embrace Scandinavian design and cuisine, while retraining a little ‘Britishness’ in its conception. Food is developed around notable Scandinavian ingredients but put together in a ‘British way’. Dishes can be informally shared as a group or equally can be enjoyed individually as a three course, more formal meal.

Exeter’s Kupp is a big place. There’s a tremendous amount of covers  – from long sharing benches to cosy informal seating – and it’s modern yet eccentric style makes it unlike anywhere I’ve ever visited before. It’s not a true independent in the sense of the word  (there’s another Kupp in London Paddington) but it’s uniqueness still sets it apart  from many of its Queen Street counterparts.

Kupp Exeter Devon

First Things First

From the off, our waitress was friendly and welcoming. When we first arrived we were shown to a table directly in front of the entrance – which was unfortunately right in the firing line of a chilly draft – and when I asked if we could sit elsewhere we were promptly shown to another seat with no qualms whatsoever. So far so good.

 I chose to start my meal off with the intriguingly named Blodig Mary (That’s a Scandinavian Bloody Mary to you and me). It was a mix of Finlandia Vodka, Absolute Citron, Tio Pepe, tomato juice, lemon juice, horseradish, celery, black pepper, Worcestershire Sauce & Tabasco. What did I think about it? Well, at first I was a little taken aback by the taste. I thought it may be a bit of a love/hate scenario. However, the more I sipped away on the cocktail, the more I started to appreciate its complexity and if you’re one of those people who enjoys juices with an earthy kick then I’d recommend you give it a try.

Being slightly less adventurous – and the designated driver I suppose – my dining partner opted for the Gosling Ginger Beer and enjoyed it so much that he had another.

Kupp Exeter Devon

Starters

My dining partner had no problems choosing his starter, going for the Homemade Potted Rabbit with Nutmeg Butter, Pickled Vegetables & Toasted Sourdough. When it arrived at our table it quickly became clear that Kupp do not deal in half portions, and he was pretty chuffed upon receiving a kilner jar containing enough potted rabbit for two! This dish was lovely. The rabbit was soft and tasty, while the pickled vegetables were sweet, crunchy and not overpowering in the slightest. In fact, I enjoyed my bite so much that I have to confess i’ve returned since and ordered one all to myself.

My starter was the Crushed Avocado & Crispbread and you pretty much get what it says on the tin. The avocado smash on top had just a hint of chili and a squeeze of lemon, making it pretty tasty; though I have to admit, I found myself pining after the potted rabbit on more than one occasion..

We also ordered a side of the Sour Cream and Chive Potato Salad and i’d wholeheartedly recommend the dish to anyone whose a fan of this dish. It’s a great twist on a classic, though we may have overfaced ourselves a little.

Kupp Exeter Devon

Mains

For mains we ordered one Handmade Swede Dog with Chips, Pickled cabbage, Bostongurka & Johnny’s Sweet Mustard and one Elk Burger with Slaw, Salad and Cured Beetroot. Both plates were accompanied with skinny fries, which were nice but nothing out of the ordinary and as enjoyable as both dishes were  the dense meatiness, bread and fries proved quite a task to finish.

I found my elk burger a tad on the dry side, though the beetroot was particular tasty. The hotdog on the other hand was juicy and rich in flavour. Had we not already filled ourselves with those starters we could have happily finished both mains off with very little complaints; though I suspect that Kupp’s strengths lay in their more overtly Scandinavian dishes.

Kupp Exeter Devon

Kupp also offers a takeaway deli service for fresh sandwiches and pastries.

Final Thoughts

Overall, Kupp is undoubtedly a very trendy place with a lot of interesting food on offer. When we visited on the Saturday night (the night of this review) it was fairly buzzing and many diners appeared to have visited before. However, when we visited again later in the week (on a Thursday) the atmosphere was lacking somewhat and most tables were empty. I’ll put this down to lousy weather, but it did make me question if Kupp may have been a little ambitious with its covers. It does after all have a lot more space than many of it’s fellow Queen Street restaurants.

As for the food, I’d recommend sticking to their more traditionally Scandinavian options and i’d be wary of ordering too much as the portions are very generous. All in all the food was a good standard and the staff were very accommodating. We’ll certainly be visiting again and next time I think i’ll have to investigate their tempting ‘Bottomless Brunch’ offer.

www.kupp.co/exeter/

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